Situated four miles from the eastern end of Hadrian’s Wall, above the south bank of the Tyne, Arbeia was built in 160 AD as a fort to watch over the mouth of the river. It was later extended and re-organised to become the main supply base for the seventeen forts that guarded the length of the Wall, and remained as such until this northern outpost of empire was abandoned in the fifth century.
By the nineteenth century, the site had become buried beneath fields. Then, in 1875, it was sold for housing development for a rapidly growing industrial workforce, during which the foundations were re-discovered. The succeeding archaeological excavations were among the earliest to be carried out on Roman sites in Britain, and in 1881, part of the area was opened as a Roman Remains and People’s Park.
More excavations were undertaken in the late 1940s, and in 1953, the first museum was opened. As surrounding houses were demolished, archaeological digging could resume, and since 1983, excavations have been carried out here every year.
Arbeia Museum
Entry to the site, which is open from April until the end of September, is through the small museum, and is free of charge. One is greeted by a reconstruction of a Roman burial and a collection of altar stones and tombstones. One of the latter commemorates Victor, a Moor and former slave from North Africa, while another honours the memory of Regina, also a freed slave who became the wife of her master, Barates.
Another room houses a gathering of small items, such as spear heads, harness fittings, keys and axes, as well as more decorative finds like brooches, pins, beads and bracelets. This is one of the largest collections of personal items dating from Roman times. There is also a ring mail suit, unearthed in 1997, the most complete such garment found in Britain.
The West Gate
On entering the site, one’s attention is immediately drawn to the reconstruction of the West Gate, which was completed in 1988, and stands on the foundations of the original gate. One can enter the building and climb to the battlement, which affords a view over the full extent of the fort. The River Tyne can be glimpsed beyond the houses a short distance to the north. There is also a model of the fort as it may have appeared in 207-8 AD.
Excavation of the main site has revealed the streets and the locations of the granary buildings, which stood at a similar height to the West Gate. The Headquarters of the original fort was itself later converted into a granary. The foundations of the offices, barrack blocks and strong room are visible, as is the courtyard, which was probably used mainly for ceremonial and religious purposes.
Barrack Block Reconstructions
The southern part of the site is occupied by reconstructions of the barrack blocks, which include the soldiers’ quarters, bedrooms and latrines. The Commanding Officer’s house consists of a garden and covered walkway, bedrooms, living rooms, offices and a large dining room in which guests would have been entertained. The walls of these reconstructed buildings have been decorated as they might have been during the Roman occupation. There is a case containing fragments of the original plaster wall coverings that were unearthed during excavations.
The barrack blocks and West Gate should be seen in conjunction with the similarly reconstructed Bath House at Segedunum fort, across the river and four miles to the west at Wallsend. Together, they provide a good illustration of the living conditions enjoyed by the Roman soldiers.
Alongside the museum is the Time Quest building, which is used for educational visits, and contains hands-on displays designed to introduce children to some of the techniques of archaeology.
Anthony Toole - I was born and brought up in the English Lake District, where I have walked and climbed for most of my life. I was educated as a scientist ...
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