Trickling out of the sodden peat of the North Pennines, near the meeting point of the borders of Northumberland, Durham and Cumbria, the East and West Allen rivers follow independent, though equally picturesque routes through the hills for around ten miles, before linking for a final four-mile meander to a confluence with the South Tyne.
The woodlands along the banks of this final stretch of the Allen Gorge were given to the National Trust in 1942, by the Hon. Francis Bowes-Lyon, a relative of the Queen. They are most easily reached from the National Trust car park and picnic area, signposted from the A69 road, just to the east of Bardon Mill. The car park occupies what was once the kitchen garden for the Ridley Hall estate.
The footpath along the west bank runs through tunnels of yew, lime and sycamore, past deep pools, dyed brown by the Pennine peat. Continuing past a suspension footbridge, one carries on beneath the overhangs of a tall sandstone crag for a leisurely mile, to reach a second bridge that crosses the river to Plankey Mill, the site of a 17th century smelting mill, part of the once thriving North Pennines lead mining industry.
Briarwood Banks Nature Reserve
Just before the bridge, one can detour, more strenuously uphill, for an exploration of Briarwood Banks. Managed by the Northumberland Wildlife Trust, this is a Site of Special Scientific Interest, by virtue of its being one of the finest examples of ancient, semi-natural woodland in the county. Species include hazel, holly, ash, oak, beech, yew and alder, while a dense layer of mosses and woodland flowers, such as ramsons, dog’s mercury and wood sorrel covers the ground. Where trees have fallen, they have been left to provide a habitat for invertebrates and fungi.
The track through Briarwood Banks runs uphill, then across the slope, over a small footbridge and a slabby crossing of Kingswood Burn, that could become impassable after heavy rain, to a stile at the wood’s edge. Following the fence to the left for 50 metres brings one to a second stile, from which another track leads back downhill to the bridge at Plankey Mill.
Staward Pele
A footpath now follows the edges of a series of fields along the east bank of the Allen, and enters a conifer wood that gives way to deciduous as it enters Staward Gorge. Across the river, more sandstone cliffs reveal their highly stratified structure. A steep ascent through oak woodland with a ground cover of heather and bilberry brings one to the ruins of Staward Pele.
Throughout the 13th and 14th centuries, this fortified building commanded a strategically high position above the valley, and was an important stronghold of the English Middlemarch during the period of conflict with Scotland. Its gatehouse, to the south, which had a drawbridge and portcullis, was easily defended, while the craggy slopes on the other sides were a significant deterrent to attackers. In the late 14th century, it was rented to the monks of Hexham Abbey, who used it for prayer and meditation during the next 150 years. In 1613, King James I gave the Pele to Lord Howard de Walden, who partly demolished it to provide stones for the building of Staward Manor.
From Plankey Mill, one can return to the car park by taking the road alongside the farm, then a footpath that follows the east bank. Here, the presence of flowers such as mountain pansy demonstrate the effect on riverbank vegetation of lead and zinc salts washed from the abandoned tunnels and spoil heaps of the North Pennine mines.
Morralee Tarn
After crossing another footbridge beneath a crag, and just before descending to the suspension bridge, a detour is offered to the right, which leads uphill for a few hundred metres to a sudden opening through the trees that affords a view of the tranquil Morralee Tarn. This was created in the 19th century as a landscape feature in what was then part of the Ridley Hall estate.
On returning to the suspension bridge one needs to cross the river for a short walk back to the car park.
This area provided much inspiration to the Victorian artist, John Martin (1789-1854), who was born at nearby Haydon Bridge. Allen Banks and Staward Gorge form part of the 10-mile John Martin Walking Trail, which begins and ends at Haydon Bridge.
Anthony Toole - I was born and brought up in the English Lake District, where I have walked and climbed for most of my life. I was educated as a scientist ...
